Viceroy Bali: A Slice of Heaven in Ubud

My Stay at the Viceroy Bali: A Slice of Heaven in Ubud

Some places feel less like a hotel and more like stepping into a dream. For me, that was the Viceroy Bali. Nestled high in the jungles of Ubud, this family-owned resort instantly felt like a sanctuary—private, serene, and utterly indulgent.

I had always dreamed of Ubud in Bali with its lush rice terraces and rainforest- well before I developed MS and needed to use a wheelchair. Once I did though, I wasn’t going to let it stop me. In my case — I can get out of the chair and walk (with significant assistance) as well as climb up stairs (very laboriously). I’m a good example of a large demographic: people who are mobility impaired but not 100% confined to a wheelchair; older travelers with limited mobility; and a member of a family with mixed abilities who are willing and happy to help me. So, for me– looking for “wheelchair accessible” places is very limiting because it implies only places where I can go alone which for me defeats the purpose of the travel to begin with!

Here’s what I want and seek: luxury, personal service, and welcoming inclusivity, over only accessibility. That said I do need a place that has minimum accessibility: I cannot stay somewhere that is incredibly rocky and steep, for example; and at a minimum I need to be able to use the shower and the bathroom, and need to be sure of a welcoming, helpful spirit.

Viceroy Bali, part of the SLH collection, is one such place. It embodies the spirit of hospitality, inclusiveness and creative luxury.

Arriving in the Valley of the Kings
The drive through winding rice paddies and village roads had already slowed me down, but the moment I stepped through the Viceroy’s entrance, everything changed. Like many luxury hotels the lobby was up a few stairs and not accessible to me but the hospitality staff brought our welcome drink downstairs to me in the car. The hotel grounds are classic Bali: sculptures carved into the walls, terraces, realize overlooking the valley–—lush, green, alive with the sound of birds and the river below. A cool towel, a refreshing welcome drink, and warm smiles set the tone. I wasn’t just checking into a hotel; I was being welcomed into an experience.

My Private Villa
When I opened the doors to my villa, I couldn’t help but gasp. A private infinity pool overlooked the jungle, catching the soft afternoon light. The villa itself blended Balinese design—soaring thatched roof, carved wood, rich fabrics—with every modern comfort. I slid open the glass doors, stretched out on a sunbed, and listened to the symphony of cicadas and rustling bamboo. It felt like my own hidden world.
Getting inside the villa required going up a small step therefore not 100% accessible but completely doable with the help of my husband and the friendly staff. Once inside, the villa was indeed accessible–wide open with a low bed easy to transfer into; inlaid corner squares to grab onto to get up; in an open bathroom with a handrail in both the shower and near the toilet. The beds and the seating were low enough for someone with limited mobility and leg strength and I was able to get out onto the terrace with help.

I was not -as many places do -relegated to the “accessible” part of the hotel which are usually significantly not as nice. These villas were as gorgeous, if not more so, than any others overlooking the valley. I had my limitations and challenges getting inside and moving around but with an attitude of “can do” and with the acceptance of and possibility of help, was able to enjoy them as much as –possibly more– than anyone else.

Food and Drinks as Art
Every meal was a highlight. Breakfast arrived with tropical fruit that tasted like sunshine, buttery pastries, and strong Balinese coffee, all enjoyed on the terrace with the valley mist rising below. Afternoons were for infused ginger honey tea relaxing in the villa with a book. For dinner, I tried CasCades, where dishes came alive with flavors of Indonesia and beyond. We began our evenings with Balinese cocktails overlooking the valley of bamboos and ferns below.

The incredibly warm staff at the restaurant would help me and my wheelchair into the restaurant, and to get comfortable at the table. While not accessible in the traditional sense, the combination of their help and incredible warmth meant I never once felt uncomfortable or unwelcome in the restaurant or bar area. And of course, once I was seated enjoying the view I had the same experience as everyone else.

Service That Feels Personal
What impressed me most was the staff. They knew my name, remembered how I liked my coffee, and seemed to anticipate what I wanted before I even asked. Every evening on our way to the restaurant, two helpers would hoist my wheelchair, with my husband, to the common area. Every afternoon, the hospitable staff would bring an infused lemon ginger tea with honey, the balance of tea and sweetness just the way I liked it. When I mentioned an interest in local crafts, they arranged a private tour of Ubud’s artisan workshops. It didn’t feel like service—it felt like care.

Stepping Out, Coming Home
As tempting as it was to stay cocooned in my villa, I ventured into Ubud. The Sacred Monkey Forest, bustling markets, temple dances—it was all a short drive away. But every time I returned, stepping back into the Viceroy felt like exhaling. The world outside was vibrant and alive; here, I found stillness. The hotel is a sanctuary in every sense of the word. A restful place to come back to at the end of a hectic day or if you prefer- simply stay in all day to relax and breathe.

True Inclusive Luxury
The Viceroy Bali was more than luxury. It was intimacy, beauty, and a sense of being utterly seen and cared for. As I packed my bags, I felt that bittersweet tug of leaving a place that had given me more than I expected—rest, wonder, and joy.

I know I’ll return. Some places call you back, and the Viceroy is one of them.

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